Camper Van Adventures in France

During our last camper van trip of the summer, we headed Southwest to discover more of the Basque country—a region boasting stunning landscapes of mountains and coastline which traverses the border of France and Spain. We’d been to the area before but this time we were in search of more secret spots in virtually untouched areas. After exploring the lovely Valley d’Aspe, my husband, JP picked out a tiny blip on our outdated 1990s map of France. You know, one of those teeny tiny crooked lines that crossed into what looked like a no man’s land. These are typically tricky to get to but usually lead us to the most amazing places with the least amount of people. A little extra effort is usually worth it!

After leaving the low valley, we ascended into the mountains climbing steeper and steeper as the road grew more narrow and windy. I’m a chicken shit anxious driver of these types of roads, so JP took the wheel. Unfortunately, after about 40 minutes into our journey we were stopped by a road block asking us to turn around and go back where we’d come from (thanks for the warning ahead of time!). JP, the consummate rule-breaker said “screw it” and continued to go around the barrier. With luck, the construction workers just ahead of us were packing up for the day and we were able to continue on. Moments later we crossed over the mountain and cruised down into the fairytale wonderland of the Plateau du Bénou.

Here we were engulfed by the most lush green pastures with towering mountains in the distance and hundreds of horses, cattle and sheep roaming freely around us. Being peak summer holidays, there were some families wandering around petting the horses, but soon enough they packed up and went home, leaving the few campers in peace for the rest of the long daylight hours.

We stopped to wander through the hills following a mare and her yearling into the vast pastures teaming with more horses and some cute tan-colored cows. Making our way back, we found a perfect spot to park the van for the night that had a view of my dreams - a constant parade of horses grazing just in front of our chairs. With a bottle of wine, some cheese and a baguette, a game of cards and this scene, who needed Netflix? As the sun finally set, we watched the moonrise as the brightest stars emerged while the sounds of the horses’ hooves and their sweet little grunts lulled us to the best night’s sleep.

Location

East of Biarritz in the Pyrénées Atlantique region, you can find the Plateau du Bénou specifically situated between the Valley d’Aspe and the Valley d’Ossau. From the Valley d’Aspe, at Escot or from Valley d’Ossau at Bielle take the D294. If you’re traveling by camper van, you can find wild spots to park for the night near the barns or anywhere you can find an open space. In google maps look for the “Ferme Maria Blanca.”

There are plenty of hiking trails to explore so be sure to wander around. The horses are pretty darn friendly so you may make some new friends. You can also hire horses for pony rides with kids or adult excursions from Les Chevaux du Benou.