Hidden Gem: La Vallée du Célé
The Célé Valley (or la Vallée du Célé) is one of the most picturesque yet least touristy places we’ve discovered in France. This is the type of area we strive to find and help you discover because as much as we love seeing les plus beaux villages along with all of the other tourists, it somehow feels extra special to happen upon these types of hidden gems.
Though we had passed through on a previous visit, my feeling for the place demanded a return trip to dive a little deeper into the area. This time we began the trip at the start of the valley in the medieval town, Figeac. Not unknown but not inundated with visitors, this town is the perfect starting point to explore the valley.
Figeac
This mid-size city is ideal to position yourself for exploring the area. At first glance, it’s an attractive city, full of restored 13th/14th/15th centuries buildings with a lovely central square. Figeac also happens to be the place of birth of Jean-Francois Champollion, the Egyptologist who deciphered the Rosetta Stone. Here you can discover the Champollion Museum—Les Ecritures du Monde, which is dedicated to the art of writing (perfect for any writers out there!). Besides regular expositions, the highlight is a replica of the Rosetta Stone. We enjoyed meandering the small windy streets, climbing the hilltop to visit the ancient church while taking in the gorgeous views, stopping in the cute shops (we found a very cute bookshop, cheese shop and an Italian epicerie), sipping cafes and people watching in the square—basically living life and watching it pass by.
Highlights & stopping points in the valley
Starting off from Figeac, take the tiny but panoramic D41 road which follows the river running at the foot of abrupt cliffs and traverses picturesque villages. Some were built straight into the cliff face, others along the fertile river. My best recommendation is to visit whatever piques your interest. Make stops, wander around the towns and along the river, see houses built into caves, grab a drink on a terrace, relax and enjoy your surroundings.
Espagnac Sainte-Eulalie
This village of is one of the main landmarks of the Célé Valley. Sainte Eulalie d’Espagnac Abbey is wonderful to explore. In summer seasons, there is a small cafe in the abbey serving light meals and snacks. It won’t take long to explore—the village is tiny but oh so charming and full of history.
Marcilhac-sur-Cele
This is another small village but quite lively in the summer as it’s a take-off point to rent a canoe for an invigorating trip down the river. In the town, you can find an abbey, now in ruins but a great piece of history and wonderful for photo ops. From there, enjoy a stroll along the river and wander on to the main walking street (only a couple blocks).
At the end of the main square there’s a nice shop selling world goods and antiques as well as artisanal ice cream. There are also a couple of nice bars and terraces along the main interior walkway, the ideal spot to grab lunch or a refreshing drink. During the summer months, there is a late afternoon market on Tuesdays with locals selling everything from food items to vintage records, arts and crafts. Such a fun way to spend an afternoon.
La Pescalerie
One of the coolest spots along the way is easy to miss. It’s a total fairy wonderland that’s fun to marvel at for a few minutes, wondering how the watermill is built into the side of the rocks. There are no road signs to indicate the site but you can park next to the small Pescalerie water works and walk along the road for about 100m.
Cabrerets
The village of Cabrerets spread in a natural amphitheatre enclosed within an impressive cliff. The ruined troglodyte fortress that clings on the Rochecourbe Cliff is known as the Devil’s Castle or Castle of the English. There are also neat houses built into the cliffs here too and it’s fun to walk up into the small streets on the hillside. Here, you can find the 14th century Château Gontaut, at the other end of the village.
Saint Cirq Lapopie
A short drive from the Célé, you can’t miss Saint Cirq Lapopie. It is called La Perle de la Vallée du Lot—Pearl of the Lot Valley. A stunning spectacular view welcomes you while driving up the hill. The village faces a semi-circular cliff or cirque, thus its name! It’s ranked among the most beautiful villages in France. It boasts a unique display of medieval architecture with magnificently restored houses ranging from the 12th to the 16th century. Find parking in one of the clearly marked spaces up the hill and take a couple hours to wander through the streets and have some lunch. Also, don’t miss the great photo ops leading up to the village (or wander down the hill to get a super perspective).