Discovering The Parc Naturel Régional du Haut-Langeudoc

While researching a new region to explore in the South of France, I came across the Parc Naturel Régional du Haut-Languedoc. Ever fascinated with national parks, I was curious about this one because of its proximity to the Mediterranean sea. It was only about 1 hour North which meant the climate would likely be warm and arid for our July road trip.

I’m a fan of using google maps to check the images of tiny villages and see if I’m drawn to them. While clicking around, I found the Vallée de L’Orb (Orb Valley), a river that ran through what looked like heaven on earth. Craggy rock faces loomed over green valleys with a perfectly clear river running through with those iconic tiny villages perched in the hillsides. This was it!

After searching and searching, I found what looked like an ideal airbnb - comfortable looking, cheap and with a stellar view. It was located in a minuscule hamlet called Vieussan. There were no amenities, only a restaurant open for lunch next to the river just below the village. I was nervous about what it might be like but you never know until you try!

After driving a good 8 hours from our base in Nantes we arrived at the park. Photos never do a place justice. This area was stunning and I was so excited to start exploring. After merging off the main road, we wove back and forth on the tiny winding, what they called a road, for about 20 minutes, then rolled into Vieussan.

The village was adorable - one of those magical little lost-in-time places. It was so tiny there were no cars allowed, so we had to park about 100 meters from the house and carry our gear up the steep cobblestone walkways. Not for the faint of heart! We found our house at the end of the village, opened the ancient wooden door, went straight to the terrace to discover the view that dreams are made of.

Since we arrived during the incredibly warm summer canicule (heatwave), we headed straight for the River Orb, about a 10 minute walk down the steep hillside. The river was a perfect refreshing temperature and our spot next to the big stone bridge was totally calm. Touristy swimming areas can get rammed in the peak hot summer season so we were pleasantly surprised to share the river with only a few others.

Where To Stay In The Orb Valley

There are a few nice rentable options in Vieussan. Sadly, our airbnb is no longer taking reservations but these houses are in the same vicinity and look lovely.

This 1 bedroom cottage is a nice-looking affordable option, only €55 a night with a 4 night minimum.

This house sleeps 8 or 9 with 4 bedrooms. €300 per night with a 7 night minimum. Includes a pool with an incredible view!

And this dream house right on the river looked incredible. I was in awe of this spot and definitely plan to rent it with some friends someday. There are actually 2 houses you can rent together or separately (one has a pool and the other has river access). Each house has 3 bedrooms, sleeping 6-8 people and is €180 a night with a 6 night minimum.

Where To Eat In The Orb Valley

Since it was my husband’s birthday while we were there, I scoped out a Michelin recommended restaurant to treat him. I can highly recommend La Mécanique des Frères Bonano! First of all, the setting was stunning with a sweeping outdoor terrace under a huge canopy of trees with a pretty stream running through. The meal was top notch. We got the tasting menu which included 2 lovely entrées (starters), 2 plats (main dishes) and dessert along with wine pairings. Everything was completely fresh, made from the local organic ingredients. The staff was laid-back but informative, taking the time to answer our questions and help us select local wines for our meal. I can’t recommend this place enough.

Tips: if you want to go here, it’s best to make a reservation in advance as they get booked up in high season. I didn’t know this at the time but they also have a smaller bistro just next door which has more tapas-style options but also made from fresh local ingredients.
Find more info here.

And lastly, this location also boasts a 5 room boutique hotel with lovely-looking rooms and a gorgeous pool. If you’re feeling fancy, this spot seems like a wonderful place to stay, relax, eat and explore.

La Mécanique des Frères Bonano
Réservations: 04 67 97 30 52
34390 - Colombières-sur-Orb - Hérault

What To See & Do In The Orb Valley

While looking around for something active to do the in area, we discovered the Gorges d’Héric just a 15 minute drive from our house. We arrived at the start of the day to avoid the strong heat and crowds which was smart as the place really filled up by mid-day. It’s wise to get an early start when visiting points of interest. In the busy summer months, you want to be there during the calmest hours—before tourists and big families show up.

From the town of Mons, follow the signs to the Gorges. At the end of the road, you’ll find a large parking area with marked signs that lead to a nicely-paved path. The hike starts slowly and gradually becomes steeper. It’s about 1.5-2 hour walk to the highest point where you can find a tiny hamlet of a few old stone buildings and a welcome rest stop serving basic refreshments.

From there, you can continue on to further hiking trails taking you deeper into the Caroux Massif but hiking maps are essential (maps can be found at any tourist center in the area). Various waterfalls and bright green natural pools of icy cold waters will summon you over as you walk up the hill or on your way back down. At the parking area you can find Snack Loulette serving refreshments and light food along the river. In the summer season they host evening guinguettes featuring music under the stars. I wholeheartedly recommend bringing along some picnic items and a good book, then find a shady spot by one of the many natural pools and laze the day away.

Location

The Vallée de L’Orb is located about 1.5 hours drive east of Montepellier or 1 hour north from Beziers. Both cities are serviced by train station and airports where you can rent a car.